vroom vroom.

So, I've mentioned Turkey's long distance buses a number of times now. Yet, I don't feel I've really done the system justice--it is truly is remarkably well-developed and acts as the main form of intercity travel in Turkey. It's nothing like the Greyhound system in the US and is, in my opinion, one of the most commendable features of Turkey's transportation infrastructure. Actually, I'd say it's one of the things Turkey should be most proud of in general.

The advantages of the bus system here have been overwhelming. Not only is the system extensive and reliable, but it's development has encouraged road creation and repair throughout the nation. Consequently, remote places are more accessible than ever before. This is obvious just by considering the 8th edition of Lonely Planet: Turkey--since 2003, when that edition was printed, the accessibility by bus to smaller towns has increased in a big way.

There is a disadvantage in this as well--I, personally, think the development of the bus system can be considered a key catalyst and assistant in the enormous migration of people from the smaller villages to the larger cities that is currently taking place. The populations in Ankara and Istanbul are growing at alarming rates and the cities are wavering somewhat under the pressure of this influx of people.

Considering Ankara's otogar, ASTI [Ankara Sehirler arasi Terminal Isletmesi], is probably the best way to illustrate the enormity of the system. I don't remember what the Istanbul otogar is like, but Ankara's otogar is top-notch. Luckily, on a recent trip, I had some time to walk around and take photographs of the terminal.



ASTI is stunning in its size and available amenities, not unlike many newer airplane terminals these days. For me, though, it was a wonderful surprise to see on my first visit. Before now, upon hearing "bus terminal" I'd think of a dingy building attached to a gas station...not that I've ever been to a long-distance bus terminal in the US. Nonetheless, it was quite a shocker to see ASTI.


The building has three floors and direct access to the Ankaray subway line into Kizilay, a trip that only takes about 15 minutes. On the main floor is where most of the ticket vendors are located. There must be over 50 bus companies represented here--some going to only one or two locations, others traveling nearly everywhere.


Vendors for different companies also walk along the hall trying to guess your destination and calling out ticket prices. It's pretty hilarious because they are often wrong, but when they get it right you can't help but stop for a moment in shock...until you remember it was a guess and, no, they can not read your mind!

The terminal is pretty much ringing, or at least low level buzzing, at all hours of the day and night. There are buses leaving nearly every half-hour or hour for the big cities, like Istanbul and Izmir. Other places have buses that leave less frequently, but it's not usually a long wait. While tickets can be bought in advance, it is oftentimes no problem to show up and buy a ticket for a bus leaving half-an-hour or an hour later. Ticket prices are competitive and reasonable. Recently, low cost airlines moved into the market, but buses still reign supreme.



You can get virtually anything you need at ASTI. Speckled throughout the station are little shoe polishing stations. These regal stands are filled with polishes of every color imaginable--those little gold bumps are canisters of polish.













You want a book? No problem-- pleasure reading, maps, dictionaries, pencil games, and study guides are all available at the various booksellers dotting the station.



Food is, of course, easy to find as there are many small cafes and a plethora of acik bufes like this one, all stuffed to the brim with every candy, snack, drink, and toiletry imaginable.




The hall is incredibly clean. There are guys who ride around on little orange floor polishers, lined up one behind the other, circling the station and mowing down anyone who gets in the way. No joke. They are like elephants that don't even recognize your presence--you gotta move cause they sure ain't stoppin' their floor waxin'.






And then there is the eternal window washing, which you see every day walking around Turkey...I've never seen so many windows being washed as I have in this country!








ASTI is one of the best places I've ever been to for people watching. You see a lot of honest emotion here--a lot of crying, especially amongst the population of older travelers. Sometimes you see great cargo, like these huge bunches of daisies being sent to some far-off destination.


It's fun to think about where everyone is going and startling to realize how diverse the population is...how you've all ended up in this place and soon enough you may be at seemingly opposite ends of the world, never to see each other again. But, there's a brief moment where you actually have something in common. I don't know, there's something a little more desolate about the bus terminal than an airport.



The perspective from inside the bus is an interesting one, too, as you see all the people being left behind. There's a lot of predeparture waving that goes nonstop for the five minutes before we leave. There are also lots of dopplegangers here and the bus terminal is a good place to find them. Take, for instance, this Shatner look-a-like...maybe? kinda?



While this is all nice, it doesn't say much about actual service on the bus--that hamburger on TV sure does look good but, slathered with wood stain and fingernail polish, the taste doesn't really compare. You know? Well, luckily, that absolutely brilliant analogy doesn't really apply here, at least amongst the reliable companies like Nilufer, Ulusoy, Varan, and Metro.

First, it's remarkable how on-time the buses are--they leave when they say they are leaving and they arrive when they say they will arrive, nearly without fail. Additionally, safety ratings are high and modern, well-maintained buses are used. I never fail to chuckle when I realize I'm riding in a bus manufactured by a more prestigious company than my own car, like BMW or Jaguar.


Second, being on a bus here is a little like being on an airplane...except everyone has a buisness class seat. Throughout the ride, you are served water, coffee/tea/juice, a snack, a wetnap, and kolonya--a liquid cologne that evaporates, very popular in Turkey--all by a nice fella who sometimes wears a bow tie.


sidenote: you have to be careful with the kolonya. typically, they give you lemon. apparently, however, there are a lot of different kolonya scents...including hamsi kolonya a.k.a. anchovy scented cologne. so, if you visit the black sea region, you have been warned. watch out! and don't sit next to the guy if he smells like fish!



If you're lucky/not-so-lucky they also show a movie--I've seen Tokyo Drift twice now. Word on the street is that some of the Ulusoy buses also have wireless internet!

On longer trips the bus stops halfway through for a meal. Unlike in the US, rest stops here have some of the best food around! That has been my experience, at least, and others have related similar stories. This is especially true if you're in a region with a food specialty. For instance, near Corum--roasted chickpea capital of the world--the chickpea stew was bloody fantastic!

The analogy to the airplane wouldn't be complete without a cell phone rule, however, and rest assured that you had better turn your cell phone off when you are on the bus [the reason for this one still escapes me].


The best part of the buses, though, is how much you get to see. They can be long and sometimes a bit bumpy, but landscapes rarely disappoint...except, of course, on night buses. With the development of the Hizli Tren [his-lee trehn; speedy train] and the introduction of new low fare airlines the bus system will surely be threatened at some point. For now, these new services don't seem to be impacting it too much. In my opinion, it would be a real shame if the bus system collapsed. So here's to hoping it never goes extinct!